What to Wear: American Woman-Fashioning a National Identity

Posted By: KK on 05/5/10 3:47 AM | Categories: What to Wear

We had the absolute pleasure to preview the iconic spring 2010 exhibition "American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity" at the Metropolitan Museum, which opens May 5 and is made possible by the GAP with additional support from Conde Nast. This utterly exquisite exhibit explores the perceptions of the modern American woman from the 1890s to the 1940s, and how such history has affected women today. The exhibition reveals how the use of style revolutions illustrated the American woman's social, political and sexual emancipation. The first gallery conjures the "Heiress" (1890s) and is set in the Astor's ballroom in Newport, Rhode Island filled with corseted gowns by Charles Frederick Worth. In Gallery 2, backdrops of the great outdoors summon the athleticism and independence of the "Gibson Girl" (1890s). Stained glass patterns of Louis Comfort Tiffany recall the "Bohemian" (1900's) attitude of style icons such as Rita Lydig in her signature silk pantaloons sans corset by Callot Souers. In Gallery 4, patriotic film footage sets the scene of the progressive political emancipation of women of the "Suffragist" period (1910's) in menswear-inspired uniforms. Beaded, feminine and leg-revealing "Flappers" (1920's) are set amongst Tamara de Lempicka inspired Art Deco murals of New York City. Followed by representations of the "Screen Siren" (1930s-40s), which showcase second-skin bias cut gowns of such a cinamatic era. Lastly, images of American women from 1890 to 2010 analyze the ideals of American style and represent each of the exhibition's examples.

So which gal are you? Heiress, Gibson, Bohemian, Suffragist, Flapper or Siren…

The Heiress

Left to Right: Jean-Philippe Worth Ball Gown (1898), "Portrait of Nancy Astor" by John Singer Sargent (1908-1909), Lee Angel Chandelier Earrings ($200), Judith Leiber Minaudiere ($1,995), Oscar de la Renta Satin Sandal ($650), Notte by Marchesa Silk Gown ($990)

The Gibson Girl

Left to Right: Ralph Lauren Golf Outfit ($125), Cover for Colliers Magazine "Vacation" by J.C. Leyendecker (1907), Ralph Lauren Aviators ($260), K-Swiss Tennis Shoes ($70), Head Pro Tennis Raquet ($199), Ralph Lauren Visor ($30), Nordstrom Tennis Bracelet ($98), Ralph Lauren Tennis Dress ($198)

The Bohemian

Left to Right: Evening Jumpsuit attributed to Callot Soeurs (ca. 1910), Portrait of Rita de Acosta Lydig by Baron Adolph de Meyer (ca. 1913), Isharya Filligree Cuff ($295) Mawi Indian Amulet Earrings ($265), Giuseppe Zanotti Crystal Cluster Sandal ($1,075), Bottega Veneta Harem Pants and Top ($395)

The Suffragist/Patriot

Left to Right: Franklin Simon & Company Women's Motor Corps of America Uniform (1916-18), Cover of Life Magazine- "Soldierettes" by Paul Stahr (1919), Ralph Lauren Cala Heels ($98), Fendi Tote ($1,790), Albertus Fedora ($395), DVF Jonsie Jersy Jacket ($345), DVF Safari Shirt ($198), DVF Jonsie Skirt ($185)

The Flapper

Left to Right: Evening Ensemble by Jeanne Lanvin (1923), Louise Brooks by Eugene Robert Richee (ca. 1928), DVF Clutch ($695), Ports 1961 Geisha Sandal ($750), Missoni Sequined Headband ($265), Lanvin Pearl Necklace ($595), Haute Hippie Dress ($595), Preen Line Leather Jacket ($1,005)

The Screen Siren

Left to Right: Evening Dress attributed to Jessie Franklin Turner (ca. 1933), Veronica Lake in This Gun for Hire (1942) by George Hurrell, Christian Louboutin Pave Clutch ($1,295), DVF Luna Platforms ($280), Ranjana Khan Tassel Earrings ($425), Halston Mettalic Dress ($1,995)

The exhibition will be on view from May 5-August 15, 2010.

This exhibition is made possible by Gap

Additional support is provided by Conde Nast

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